Prior to the invention of modern industrial techniques—freezing, canning, chemical stabilizers, etc—fermentation was one of the most prevalent forms of food preservation. Former Deli Kitchen Manager, Andrew Wilhelme breaks down the fundamentals of fermentation and its origins:
Wild fermentation originally occurred in subterranean pits lined with leaves and filled with various foods, covered and left to be inoculated and acidified by friendly bacteria found both naturally within the food itself as well as in the surrounding air. Though it may seem primitive, burying food within the earth controls temperature and is still employed today in many traditional ferments, like Korean kimchi.
All cultures throughout the world practice forms of fermentation. Anthropologists regard its development as comparable to the use of fire in its importance to our ancestor’s relationship to food and nutrition. Though modern methods have usurped fermentation’s necessity as a preservation technique, it is still a widespread practice. By some estimates, as much as one-third of the foods we consume today have been fermented. Common examples include coffee, vanilla, chocolate, beer, prosciutto, kimchi, tempeh, olives, ketchup, yogurt, soy sauce, sourdough bread, and cheese.
If you’re thinking that list looks like what you’ll find stocked on our shelves, you’re right! Delicatessens have traditionally been meccas for fermented foods and we do our best to carry on that custom. Our wide selection of fermented foods was enhanced when we introduced pickled products from The Brinery, a homegrown Ann Arbor business specializing in traditionally made, raw fermented foods.
Fermented Food Fans
@thebrinery
The Brinery was founded in 2010, with a small batch of sauerkraut meant to preserve a surplus of fresh cabbage from Chelsea, Michigan’s Tantré Farm. Brinery Owner and Chief Fermentation Officer, David Klingenberger, went on to make more and more small-batch ferments with local produce and was able to scale up the operation at an exciting rate, in part thanks to the help of a crowdfunding campaign. The Brinery now processes over 200,000 lbs of local, family-farmed vegetables every year at the Washtenaw Food Hub, their solar-powered facility! As their business continues to grow, they remain committed to the values that inspired their first batches of kraut:
We believe that probiotic bacteria are a direct path to digestive enlightenment and optimal health.
We work closely with farmers who guard the vitality and diversity of the land, and provide nourishment to their communities.
We are committed to strengthening our region’s economy with natural, healthy, and vibrant foods made by happy and healthy humans.
We keep the flame of creative human culture alive by recalling our ancestors who used fermentation to preserve food out of necessity, while looking to the future of flavors that will inspire new generations to delight in food that brings us ever closer to each other and to our place in the cosmos.
Sauerkraut-Laden Sandwiches
We’ve only changed how our reubens are made twice over the years—both incredible ingredient upgrades. The first came in 1992, when Zingerman’s Bakehouse opened and we started using their breads for our sandwiches—Jewish Rye is the one you’ll most often see on our reubens. Theirs is made with a high percentage of rye flour, a natural rye sour that’s fed daily with freshly milled organic Midwest rye, and “old” a mush made from leftover rye bread and water (a step usually skipped in modern-day baking).
The second was making the switch to using Brinery sauerkraut on our reubens in 2012. In both cases, we made changes to align with two of our overriding principles — to provide locally produced food that is full of flavor. As Deli Chef and Managing Partner Rodger Bowser explains: “Buying from the Brinery supports a small business that, in turn, supports local farms and other businesses, which coincides with our Guiding Principles of ‘building strong relationships’ and being ‘an active part of our community.’” It’s probably clear by now that we’re big fans of The Brinery—in fact, I think we’re their biggest customer! In 2024 alone we purchased over 15,000 pounds of sauerkraut! You’ll find three reubens loaded up with this outstanding kraut on our menu:
#2 Zingerman’s Reuben
The original reuben at the Deli, the Zingerman’s Reuben was, is, and forever will be our most popular sandwich. The #2 starts with Zingerman’s Delicatessen Corned Beef. (It has our name on it because we developed our own corned beef recipe with Sy Ginsburg about three decades ago, and it’s been the signature component of Zingerman’s Reubens ever since.) Like most of our reubens, the #2 features LeSuperbe Swiss Emmental cheese and our own Russian Dressing. We also pile on Brinery sauerkraut and tuck all of those flavorful fillings between two grilled slices of Jewish Rye bread from Zingerman’s Bakehouse.
Fun fermentation fact: Many of the Bakehouse’s breads are naturally leavened (aka fermented), otherwise known as sourdough (they’ve been caring for their starter since they first opened in 1992!). A lineup of lots of sourdough breads doesn’t mean they’re all sour breads though! Naturally leavened breads can range in flavor from sweet to sour—take a look at the spectrum of flavor.
#48 Binny’s Brooklyn Reuben
You’ll still find that nutty, buttery Swiss cheese, the Brinery’s flagship kraut, and our creamy Russian dressing on the #48. This one takes a turn from the previous reubens with Zingerman’s Pastrami, a richly spiced cousin of corned beef. It’s brine-cured and coated in a blend of black pepper and aromatic spices, and like our corned beef, our recipe is made for us by United Meat and Deli. Holding it all together are grilled slices of the Bakehouse’s old-world style pumpernickel bread. Dark, moist, and full of flavor, it’s made with the same detailed process and organic rye sour as its cousin, Jewish Rye bread.
#236 Rucker’s Raucous Reuben
A vegetarian reuben, this is made with Swiss cheese, Russian dressing, grilled Jewish Rye, and not one, but two products from The Brinery! When David and his fermentation wizards at The Brinery debuted their version of tempeh, a plant-based protein known for its earthy, rich flavor and meaty texture, we knew it needed a home on one of our reubens—along with their sauerkraut, of course.
Curious about how these sandwiches got their names? Or the five other sandwiches that round out our reuben menu? Read on!
Brinery Products at the Deli
We also carry The Brinery’s products so you can make your own kraut-laden sandwiches, sauerkraut salad, and more at home. (Psst: They’re all naturally vegan and low-carb friendly!)
@thebrinery
Fair n’ By Sauerkraut – The Brinery’s flagship kraut is a salute to natural fermentation. Made with just cabbage and salt, this is the crisp classic that ties our reuben together.
Galaxy Rose Sauerkraut – Made with green cabbage, red heart radish (also known as watermelon radish), and salt. The heirloom radish gives this staff favorite kraut a rosy glow, gentle bite, and a hint of sweetness.
Oh Gee Kimchi – A vegan version of the Korean staple built on a base of napa cabbage with hot pepper, ginger, garlic, and onion balanced against the subtle sweetness of apples and carrots.
Tempeh – Using age-old fermentation techniques, this unpasteurized product is made in small batches from organically grown, non-GMO beans sourced from Northern Ohio. This tempeh has a superior nutty flavor and meaty texture. New to tempeh? David says, “This is not a meat substitute. People in other cultures eat this because they like it in its own right—think of it as the charcuterie of the fermented vegetable world.”
Sriracha — Sweet & garlicky, naturally fermented sriracha created in collaboration with Takoi chef, Brad Greenhill. Our Sriracha recipe blends the richness of fermented garlic with scarlet hot pepper mash to create a slightly sweet, definitely spicy sauce you won’t soon forget.
Aura Solanales Hot Sauce – Louisiana-style hot sauce made with five different red peppers! A Louisiana-style hot sauce capturing the warmth and flavor of sun-ripened hot peppers. Medium hot and will not overpower, but enhance any meal!
Sandwich Kits – For folks in the area who want to try making a Zingerman’s Deli sandwich at home, our Reuben Kit and Custom Sandwich Kit have you covered. Each kit feeds 4 to 6 people and includes one pound of meat, a half pound of cheese, a loaf of Bakehouse bread, a half pound of sliced Swiss cheese, and other essential accouterments, like dressing, pickles, and a jar of Brinery sauerkraut, of course! (To get your fix elsewhere, )
However you decide to get their products, feel free to stock up, they’ll last a looong time (if you can resist eating them of course). The Brinery crew describes the shelf life as indefinite, explaining,
…as long as it is in the refrigerator and the vegetables are fully under the brine. It’s like that age-old saying “If it’s in the brine, it’s fine! If it’s in the air, beware!” (David Klingenberger, 2010). Our krauts, kimchi, and pickles will only spoil if the vegetables are above the brine and make contact with air. Even so, whatever is under the brine is fine, just dispose of the spoiled layer. We do, however, offer “best-by” dates on all of our products to serve as a guide.
