An old Salvadoran recipe beautifully cured by an Ann Arbor artisan
Over the years, The Brinery—founded by David Klingenberger fifteen years ago—has become a fixture on the Ann Arbor food scene and an important supplier to the Zingerman’s Community of Businesses! We’ve been using The Brinery’s naturally fermented sauerkraut on the Deli’s Reubens for years now, as well as on sandwiches and specials at the Roadhouse. At the Deli, we also sell jars of their wonderful krauts and cured vegetables—all of which, I can vouch from years of eating experience, are excellent!
The Brinery was born from David’s desire to preserve a surplus of cabbage at Tantré Farm, where he was working at the time. From that unassuming start, The Brinery has grown into one of the country’s most beloved little curing companies—last year alone, it cured and pickled over 200,000 pounds of fresh produce using completely traditional techniques!
Of the business, the Brinery crew shares,
The Brinery is committed to preserving healthy and wholesome produce through the ancient art of fermentation. We aim to stimulate people’s inner economies with our living, raw, and unpasteurized fermented foods. At the same time, we strive to stimulate the economy of our greater community by working with local family farms to grow our produce.
This summer, David and crew have rolled out a brand new kraut—Curtido—based on an old Salvadoran recipe. Cabbage and carrot form the base, fresh lime zest and jalapeño take it to the next level. David is especially excited about this new, limited edition offering. Here’s his take:
The Brinery honors this El Salvadoran slaw, while deepening the flavors and nutrition through our 2-month fermentation process.
The practice of fermenting vegetables was already common among the indigenous Pipil, used as a method for food preservation. The arrival of Spanish colonizers in the 16th century introduced new ingredients like cabbage, carrots, and vinegar, which were incorporated into the existing fermentation techniques. Over time, curtido’s recipe and preparation methods have evolved, with variations in spice levels and fermentation times across different regions. As Salvadorans migrated, they took curtido with them, making it a symbol of their culinary identity and introducing it to new audiences. Curtido is a staple accompaniment to pupusas, the national dish of El Salvador, providing a refreshing contrast to the savory flavors of the masa cakes.
You can use The Brinery’s Curtido any way you’d use any other sauerkraut! It’s great on a reuben. Or go without the meat and pile it high on a grilled cheese. I love it for the Sauerkraut Salad I shared in “A Taste of Zingerman’s Food Philosophy.” Make a Salvadoran Choucroute Garnie. Or do as I’ve done—just snack on some straight from the jar!
