Excerpt from Ari’s Top 5 enews
Fine flavor and artisan excellence from Fuerteventura
Looking for a cheese that’s both exceptionally flavorful and equally accessible? Something different but not too drastic? Try Cabra Al Gofio from Fuerteventura — it just came back in stock at the Deli, and it is, as always, delicious!
The Canary archipelago has seven volcanic islands that lay not too far off the west coast of Morocco, and the island’s original inhabitants are thought to have shared background with the Berbers, the native peoples of North Africa. Despite the immediate English linguistic association to birds, the name “Canarias” actually comes from cane or “dogs,” a reference to the very fierce breed native to the island. The islands were conquered at various points by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Castilians, Portuguese, the British, and modern-day Spaniards—the Castilians came in the 14th century and the Canaries became a colony of mainland Spain. In 1982, the year we opened the Deli, the Canaries became what’s called an “autonomous community” (the same classification as, say, Catalonia) of Spain.
Cabra Al Gofio begins with traditional Majorero cheese from Fuerteventura about 60 miles off the African coast. The island is home to the Majoreras goat, whose milk gives a unique, almost toasted nuance to the flavor of the finished cheese. The word Majorero is a Guanche (traditional language of the islands) word still used today to describe the people of Fuerteventura. The cheese is referred to as the “Jewel of Fuerteventura.” Gofio refers to the grain used to coat the cheese while it ages. Originally, Gofio was made from barley, then later from wheat, and in recent centuries after the Spanish colonizers brought maize back from the Americas, most frequently from cornmeal. It’s essentially a toasted flour also used for other dishes—dumplings, porridge, to thicken soups or stews, and more.
With the finished cheese, the gofio is just a light dusting of finely ground cornmeal on the rind. Its physical presence is small, but it adds depth of flavor and character, leading to a slightly denser texture. Known as the “Jewel of Fuerteventura,” this cheese has become my and Tammie’s go-to the past month. Novices and cheese aficionados alike are highly likely to enjoy it. It’s great cut from the round as is, sliced and used in a grilled cheese, tossed into a green salad, or eaten with fresh fruit and nuts. Enjoy it with a piece of the Bakehouse’s True North Bread or Country Miche. I love it with the Roadhouse Bread, whose cornmeal pairs well with the cheese, and accompanied by toasted almonds or walnuts. It’s terrific, too, with the wonderful heirloom apples on the market right now around Ann Arbor. Add a glass of wine, and dream about relaxing on one of those lovely Canary Island beaches.