
If you’re a fan of the Deli, you know we’re huge fans of tinned fish – in fact, even a passerby wandering in for the first time would probably realize it! Cockles, octopus, spicy mussels – we’ve got it all, and we love it all. But classics are classic for a reason, and nothing is quite as classic as the tried and true tuna. Trust us, this is not the same as your grade-school soggy sandwich with too much mayo.
Let’s Dive In

Did you know that canned food originated with Napoleon? Keeping a legion of soldiers fed is no easy task, and during the Napoleonic Wars at the turn of the 19th century, Napoleon offered a 12,000-franc reward to whoever came up with a method of preserving food in order to sustain his armies. Nine years later, the reward went to French confectioner Nicholas François Appert for bottling food airtight. A year after that in 1810, fellow Frenchman Pierre Durrand patented his own method in England – using tin cans!
When it comes to Spain, the tradition of conservas has been around for a long time. The bountiful catches in Galicia and along the Cantabrian coast called for methods of preserving fish – it was impossible to consume all that was caught before it spoiled, and fish was going to waste. Before canning, fish was salted or pickled to keep it safe for consumption. When the method of canning hit the scene, it changed the game for Spain. Now fish could be packaged with silky sauces and flavorful oils, and still be fresh when the consumer cracked open the tin. What’s more, the Spanish tradition of tapas made for an extremely profitable market when it comes to conservas. Originally, conservas were seen as a cheaper way to eat fish, but the innovation in new ingredients from across the globe boosted popularity. Nowadays you can find octopus, squid, mussels, and so much more in these handy-dandy tins that can last for months on your shelf, if not years.
Comparatively, tinned fish – specifically tinned tuna – is a recent phenomenon in the United States. It was totally unheard of before the 20th century. According to Andrew Smith, author of “American Tuna: The Rise and Fall of an Improbable Fish,” tuna was once considered a “trash fish.” When tuna did come around in the States in 1904, there wasn’t much of it. But with the development of more efficient fishing technology allowing local fishers to catch heavier tuna, and the method of removing its excess oils that improved flavor, the industry changed for the better. What once tasted like seawater started tasting more like chicken (later inspiring the name of international tuna canner Chicken of the Sea!), and more appealing to consumers. Its high protein, low fat, and low price sent tuna profits soaring. By 1950, not even a half century since its first introduction to the States, tuna had surpassed salmon as the nation’s most popular fish – and almost all of it was canned.

When it comes to tuna at Jewish delis, it’s hard to pin down exactly how or when tuna made its entrance. Canned tuna was disproportionately popular along the East Coast, especially New York. The surge of tuna popularity aligned with the rise of Jewish delicatessen culture, and it started popping up in delis alongside their preexisting whitefish salad. This tradition of mixing protein + mayo + relish long precedes the arrival of tuna! It was a way to use up scraps – chicken, salmon, whitefish, you name it. Whitefish was popular among delis due to its similarity to the freshwater fish immigrant Ashkenazi Jewish communities were accustomed to in Eastern Europe. This familiarity with fish salad made tuna a welcome addition to the deli lineup. It helps that most canned tuna is kosher, as is most jarred mayo, making tuna salad a decent option for Jews observing kashrut who patronized non-kosher establishments.
It was the mounting concern of mercury content, in addition to fishing practices that endangered dolphins and sharks, that caused tuna’s popularity to take a dive in the 1970s and 80s. What’s more – a lot of the tuna being sold wasn’t cheap or fresh. People weren’t buying into a product that put a hole in their wallets and didn’t even taste good!
At the Deli we care about quality, and we care about flavor. You deserve to feel good about the food you buy! That’s why we take great pride in the vendors we work with to stock our shelves. Our fish vendors, just like everyone else we work with, promote sustainability and quality that you can count on. Not only do we have fantastic tins of tuna from vendors like Ortiz and Fishwife, but we have our own tuna salad that we offer sandwiched between some great slices of Bakehouse bread, or by the half-pound for you to enjoy at home.
Ortiz

The Ortiz family have been packing tuna, anchovies, and other small fish from the Cantabrian Sea for over 100 years – a long time to perfect their craft. Their tinned fish is recognized as some of the finest across the entire globe! Zingerman’s Mail Order writes on The Feed, “Decades ago, chefs used to select their preferred tuna batches in person at Ortiz’s cannery, Spain’s highly esteemed fifth generation tinned fish titan.” Ortiz stays faithful to the one boat/one batch cooking, meaning that all their fishing is traceable to the exact boat and exact catch that your tin comes from! The Ortiz family take great pride in the quality, speed, care, and commitment to detail they put into every tin. It’s no wonder that Ortiz Tuna has been our biggest seller for decades!
Yellowfin Tuna: Yellowfin tuna are prized for their rich, fatty flesh that absolutely melts in your mouth. This is among the finest tinned fish available anywhere. Enjoy Yellowfin tuna on top of a simple salad, with M’hamsa cous cous, or straight from the tin on a sunny day!
Bonito del Norte Tuna: Line caught from the fourth generation Ortiz family, hand cleaned and tinned in good olive oil–which adds flavor and imparts a silky texture.
Tuna-Stuffed Piquillo Peppers: These beautiful Spanish peppers are stuffed with line caught tuna. They’re lovely on their own or smeared on a crusty bread.
Ventresca Albacore Tuna: If you’re someone who loves the traditional Bonito Tuna, the Ventresca belly cut will propel your taste buds into the stratosphere. It’s the belly cut so it’s extremely moist and tender- the texture is almost velvety with richness, and the flavor is beyond compare- if you’re a tuna lover you’ll be in fish heaven.
Fishwife

This woman-founded and woman-led tinned fish company is a bit newer to our shelves, but they’re just as big a hit. Their aim is to make ethically sourced, premium, delicious tinned seafood a pantry staple in every home.
Spicy Tuna: Hot paprika, olive oil, cayenne, garlic and salt.You can add just a squeeze of lemon and a little olive oil and make a marvelous meal in under a minute. Add a spoonful or two of mayo and you’ll have a terrific tuna salad. Put it on toast from the Bakehouse. Or add some to a green salad. Great tossed with pasta, rice, or couscous too!
Albacore Tuna in Olive Oil: Single-line caught off the Bay of Biscay during the months of June-August. One of the most sought after tuna for its tenderness and flakiness. A real treat.
American Tuna
Founded by six American Pole & Line fishing families in San Diego, California 20 years ago, American Tuna was formed to bring sustainably sourced seafood that supports U.S. fishing communities to the market. They use traditional harvest and packing methods; the tuna is caught one-by-one by their fishers along the Pacific, which is the most environmentally conscious way to fish and ensures the highest quality. This method also naturally catches fish that live closer to the surface of the water, which are smaller and younger and have accumulated less mercury than the larger and older tuna that live in deeper water.

The tuna is hand filleted, hand-packed, and only cooked once to retain the most flavor and ideal texture. Their effort shows in their product! American Tuna has been rated as “Best Specialty Tuna” by Bon Appetit, and was the winner of America’s Test Kitchen tasting. What began as a local vendor in San Diego that you could only find at two Whole Foods Markets has since become a nationwide company that brings sustainable and delicious seafood to tables across the country!
We made the switch from imported oil-packed tuna to US-sourced, water-packed tuna for our Tuna Salad in 2014, resulting in a fluffier, less oily, more classic tuna salad. Our tuna salad is made with mayo, celery and onion and available on the #14, sandwiched with Vermont cheddar between slices of grilled Jewish rye bread from Zingerman’s Bakehouse. You can also purchase our tuna salad by the half-pound to take home with you.
Feeling inspired? Take a look at Ari’s recipes!
- Ortiz Bonito Tuna
- Catalan Tomato and Tuna Salad
- Walnut, Potato, and Tuna Salad
- A Tunisian Salad of Tuna
- Fettuccine with Tuna
- Linguine with Lemon