First, a bit of background: The Eckhouses have been making Prosciutto and other traditional Italian cured pork products such as Pancetta, Lardo and Coppa for several years now and we've been carrying their products and maintaining a positive, yet critical, working relationship with them from day one. Iowa is known both for it's state tree, the oak, and for harboring many of America's few remaining family owned, free range hog farms. One of the most noted of these is Becker Lane Farms, in nearby Dyersville, Iowa, where owner Jude Becker has taken this tradition a step further by certifying his farm organic, and by entering a partnership with the Eckhouses to use local acorns as the primary feed for some of his heirloom Berkshire pigs ("La Quercia" means "the oak" in Italian).

La Quercia's choice for Berkshire has to do with that breed's genetic predisposition to meat comprised of relatively shorter protein chains, making for a softer, more pleasant eating experience. Furthermore, the acorn diet alters the composition of the animal's fat, rendering half of it mono-unsaturated (like the fat in extra virgin olive oil). Now, I'm no scientist, so for me, the proof has always needed to lie firmly in the pudding. And from tasting and comparing especially the Prosciutto (these have just started arriving at the Deli now!) from Acorn Edition I to Prosciutto di Parma and Jamon Iberico de Bellota, the pudding has confirmed that this acorn and heirloom stuff isn't just a cool idea, but, as we're all prone to saying around here "you really CAN taste the difference."

Since the Deli has been so committed to Acorn Edition I, the Eckhouses sent us the first Prosciutto to reach full maturity so they actually hadn't tasted any yet when Deli chef Rodger and I brought on our visit. The Eckhouse's were seriously impressed with the excellent taste, texture, and aroma of the Prosciutto. I think I even detected a little relief. Herb's exhale while tasting sounded a lot like a really big "Phew!" Honestly, that's how it is in this kind of artisan production, especially when you're producing something that needs so much time to undergo its transformation. They take great care to make all of the right moves, but they ultimately can't know if they've succeeded or failed, until they taste it (over a year later)! Phew indeed!

Another challenge facing any Prosciuttificio, even in Italy, is the adherence to the unique specifications of initial butchering necessary for great Prosciutto making. The hams must be butchered just right to ensure even curing. And if you were to go to your local butcher and ask him to trim a ham for making prosciutto, I guarantee that almost none of them would know how to go about it. The butchering of the hams was a very rare and special thing to witness. The transformation of an unceremoniously cut fresh ham to the smooth-surfaced and carefully intentioned pear-shaped beauty ideal for curing took a 26-page spec sheet (developed by Herb) to illustrate. Herb declined our offer to help with this particular step however Rodger and I did pitch in to sort and trim the remaining pieces of precious pork left over to be sent to subscribers as trim or to be made into Kathy's already legendary Acorn Edition fresh sausage.

Be sure to come into the Deli and get a taste of the amazing Acorn Edition I Prosciutto, and keep your senses tuned to the debut of Acorn Edition II. Like last year, we'll be receiving the cured jowls (or Guanciale) and belly (or Pancetta) around the time this article gets published, then we'll be getting the cured shoulder (a.k.a. Coppa) and the cured back fat (Lardo!) by early summer. Also like last year, Chef Rodger and the Deli's kitchen crew will be using the fresh cuts to make some seriously special recipes.