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May-June 2008


If this is the first you've hearing about this news, here's the scoop: One of our favorite sources for full-flavored cured pork products, Herb and Kathy Eckhouse's La Quercia, in Norwalk, Iowa, began the first of its kind Acorn Edition project this past summer. Their idea was to locally source organically raised, heirloom hogs of the Berkshire breed, and supply the already happy pigs with plenty of acorns to eat. The Eckhouse's intention was to use this pork to make a variety of high quality salumi for a subscription-only Acorn Edition. The Deli was one of only two retailers in the country to subscribe, alongside an illustrious list of chefs, and the salumi coming out of the Acorn Edition is some of the best available in America, albeit in very limited quantities. So far, we've received guanciale, which came and went really fast, pancetta and lardo, which we have strictly limited quantities of. There's also a bit left of the rillettes we made out of the bits and pieces of fresh pork and pork fat.

We're happy to announce the next round of La Quercia's Acorn Edition products available now at the Deli.

Coppa
A type of salumi made by salting and seasoning a large piece of pork shoulder and curing it whole in a natural casing. It bares resemblance to the more popularized salumi, capicola, in the cut of meat that is used, but coppa distinguishes itself by being dry cured with no water added. By not adding water, La Quercia concentrates the already flavorful shoulder meat into something superlative. I mean it, this stuff will blow pork and salumi lovers away! The Eckhouse's know all about how special this cut of pork can be as salumi, and since they strive to create unique eating experiences with each product they develop, they're accenting the already intense pork flavor with an unusual spice blend of salt, cocoa, and sweet Spanish paprika. I know what you're thinking: sounds like the newest, off-the-wall Vosges exotic chocolate bar, not a salumi! And had I not tasted a prototype back in December during a visit to La Quercia, I would have completely agreed with you. During the initial processing of the Acorn Edition in December, the Eckhouses sought consultation with their colleague Giorgio, a fourth generation Italian salumi maker. He stood in horror watching the Eckhouses insult this beautiful pork, and in effect, Italy's entire salumi making tradition. But then he tasted the prototype and said, "It's very strange, but it works. Yes. This tastes very, very good!" The sweet pimenton and cocoa give the meat a depth of flavor that's at once smoky, pleasantly bitter, and spicy, and the really good fat marbling on the shoulder meat mellows and enriches the whole taste experience. Both Giorgio and I were unwittingly converted. You will be, too.

Posole Verde
In our efforts to use every last bit of this very special pork, we decided that with Cinco de Mayo just around the corner, we would use the head to make one of our favorite traditional Mexican Stews, Posole Verde. Deli cook Rob Blacklock is pulling out all the stops for this one! He's fire roasting tomatillos, chiles, and pumpkin seeds to give the stew it's color, spice, acidity, and body. There's also hominy in there, adding some heft, corny sweetness and aroma. The epazote and cilantro freshen the whole thing up, and the Berkshire pork head, the star of the show, makes the dish lip-smacking good. I like mine with a little sour cream and fresh squeezed lime on top. Get it while supplies last.

Liver Terrine
It's always been a dream of ours to do more charcuterie type preparations in the Deli, and the Acorn Edition was a perfect opportunity to make our dreams come true. Deli cook Michael Dickman is using the pork liver and pork trim to make a traditional, coarse cut terrine accented with pear brandy. There won't be much of this to go around either, so don't wait to come into the Deli, get a slab of liver terrine, some cornichons, some good dijon mustard and a Zingerman's Bakehouse French baguette and have yourself a picnic a la Acorn Edition.


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