Chocolate News & Notes

March/April 2011

Howdy!

I’m typing this as I sit on my porch, pretending that it’s a few degrees warmer than it actually is, but between my shearling lined houseshoes and hot cup of coffee (pourover brew method – try it next time you’re in the Next Door!) I think I’ll manage just fine. Wintery chocolate holidays are crossed off my list and spring is upon us! I’ve got a mad fever for some different styles of sweets to accompany my lust for sunshine, birdsong, long hours of daylight, and open windows catching soft breezes, as well as some chocolate corner news to share – read on!

Toodles!

Spring Treats


Agrimontana Fruit Gellies
These individually wrapped fruit gellies come from Borgo San Dalmazzo, a commune in the province of Cuneo, Italy, sited in the gentle foothills of the Maritime Alps. Agrimontana is essentially synonymous with flavorful fruit-derived confections be it preserves, marrons glacés, or candies. The company has over 30 years under its belt, seeking out the best cultivars and employing the foremost conservation techniques. I love these gellies for their brightness of flavor, the touch of resistance when you bite into them, and their restrained sweetness. In my mind, these are the perfect treat at the end of a small dinner party, passed around and shared as you linger, let your food settle and watch the daylight slowly fade away.

Chocolat Moderne Easter Eggs
Those of you who follow us on Facebook no doubt saw the eye-candy we posted about these lovely and festive eggs from Chocolat Moderne in New York City. While the deadline for pre-orders have passed, I will have a limited number in house during the week leading up to Easter (Sunday, April 24th), ready to grace your Easter baskets!

Zingerman’s Candy Manufactory’s
Peanut Brittle

The newest confection from Charlie & the Zingerman’s Candy Manufactory. Full-flavored jumbo runner peanuts suspended in deep golden shades of caramelized cane sugar hand-pulled at just the right moment. Earth-shatteringly good! Sold in half-pound bags that you would be well advised to mark with your name and stow away in a safe place, away from sweet-prowling friends and family.

Flora Nougat
No need to extol Flora anymore than I already have – rather, let’s get to the point. Her French-style soft nougat, after a short winter vacation, is back in stock! Available in Traditional (pistachio & almond) as well as Locavore (pecans & cherries).

D. Barbero Italian Torrone

What can I say, spring time and nougat seem like peas in a pod to me. Must be something about the delicate flavor imparted by high quality honey and fresh nuts seated in an ethereal egg white pillow. Barbero is traditional Italian nougat, or torrone, and is characteristically harder in texture than French nougat. It comes to us from Asti, Italy; the product of a five-generation-old family business. Click here for some fantastic footage of its production!

Fran’s Hazelnut Diamonds
A big round of applause to former Zingerman’s employee, Kathleen E., for her generosity of spirit and knowledge when she visited from Seattle and now-employer Fran’s Chocolates! Staff and guests alike learned a lot about the company and I am even more enthused to be selling their wares. If you didn’t get the opportunity to try their new Hazelnut Diamonds during the public demos, please ask to do so next time you’re in the neighborhood. These gems feature freshly ground Oregonian hazelnuts & creamy milk chocolate. The perfect companion to your double espresso.

Chocolate Corner News

Chocolate in the Deli
If you’ve been to the Deli in the last few weeks, I’m sure you’ve noticed some dramatic changes! (For more general information on the Deli Build-Out, I’ll direct you to our official Build-Out website which can best answer most questions.) Some of the adjustments we’ve made to accommodate construction have affected where you can find chocolate at the Deli. We have some small shelves in the Deli proper, but have had to trim our space to make room for increased traffic out the front door. Do not despair! You can still find our entire chocolate selection in the Next Door and many a staff member to help you find the perfect sweet treat.

World Cacao Prices
As some of y’all may have read in the press, cacao trading prices are reaching record highs. A large part of this is tied to the Ivory Coast’s recent ban on exports. To give you some idea of what this means for chocolate, consider this: in one year alone, the Ivory Coast exports 2.5 billion dollars worth of cacao. Insane! With such a large supply being cut off and no decrease in demand, it is inevitable that prices for cacao elsewhere are driven upward. Chocolate makers and confectioners across the US are finding that they are unable to continue absorbing the cost increases – and as a result, I have been informed by a number of my vendors of price increases. Cacao has a history of volatility in the market, so I’m crossing my fingers for a little relief.

New Askinosie Bar
Shawn Askinosie has produced yet another delicious chocolate bar – 70% Cortés. This one features beans from Cortés, Honduras – a geographical area with a long history of cacao farming, dating back to Mayan civilizations. The bar is full of bright berry notes and mouthwatering acidity, balanced by a tannic, slightly savory finish. I just ate a quarter of a bar writing this.

New Truffle Vendor in the Case
A warm welcome to The Velvet Chocolatier, our newest confectioner. Based in Baltimore, Ruthie specializes in what I consider bon-bons with a capital B! “Velvety” is truly the only way to describe her ganaches which are thick and rich with full-fat cream and flavorful chocolate. Find a plush robe and a big featherbed to sink into while you sink your teeth in these chocolates.

That’s all I’ve got from my chocolatey corner of the world. As always, I love hearing from y’all, so please feel free to email me (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)  (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)   with any and every chocolate inquiry!

“I’m Sweet on You” – Valentine’s Day Edition

In my mind, there are two holidays that got my mother particularly excited when my sister and I were growing up. The Fourth of July & Valentine’s Day. Daughter of a US Colonel that my mom is, the Fourth of July enthusiasm continues strong to this day; not a year has gone by that I haven’t been awoken by a phone call where I answer and hear extremely loud and extremely garbled John Philip Sousa, my mother holding the telephone against one of our home’s sound system speakers. When I was living in Austin, the day would continue with conspicuous red, white & blue attire, traditional American fare, splashing in the swimming pool, watermelon gluttony, sparklers (with requisite paranoia and hysteria regarding safety), and fireworks observed from a very safe distance.

Valentine’s was celebrated with equal enthusiasm, but a good deal more charm and sweetness. My mom would orchestrate a little family brunch in the formal dining room. She’d dress the table in a rich red tablecloth, overlaid with a white lacey one. Some red roses and shiny Hershey kisses for a centerpiece. Perhaps some Texas French Bread pastries. Sparkling apple juice in champagne flutes and big, red strawberries with copious amounts of powdered sugar for dipping. After indulging in pastry and strawberries till our lips were stained with juice, my mother would present us each with a box of fancy chocolates. We’d pour over these chocolates for the next week or two, delighted when we bit into a favorite, horrified when we hit a chocolate we had been trying to avoid. Once we emptied our boxes, it’d be another year before we were graced with such fancy delights!

Regardless of how you may feel about Valentine’s Day, I would like to think that it is a perfect excuse for anyone to treat his or herself, a friend, or a loved one to a little something sweet. That being said, I’ve picked out some of my favorite treats and hope
that you’ll stop by for one or more of them!

Yours in Chocolate,

Truffles!

Valentine’s is another holiday where I am allowed to let the truffle case go wild and over the next several days it will only continue to burst at the seams with old favorites and guest appearances from beloved truffles that we don’t have year-round. Here’s the tiniest glimpse of our offerings to get you thinking about your perfect box of chocolates!

  • Sweet Gem’s Champagne Hearts: This is a terribly special confection showcasing a sparkling wine from France, Campalou Vouvrey; the ganace is then finished with a touch of Courvoisier Cognac and as always features local Calder Dairy cream.
  • Grocer’s Daughter’s Ginger Pear Caramel: Truffles generally aren’t something I dream about, but the juiciness of the pear paired with the nice bite of ginger in lush caramel got me good. And hey, it’s vegan!
  • Chocolate in Chelsea’s Lavender: Cathy Selin snuck a sample of this confection in one of my December orders and after a grueling day at work, it was a perfect antidote. Cathy is queen of velvety ganaches and restraint in her flavor combinations. Perfect balance!
  • Chocolat Moderne’s Amarena Mon Amour: Joan Coukos elevates chocolate-
    covered cherries to new heights; tart Italian cherries suspended in vodka syrup, neatly packaged in jewel-like, iridescent dark chocolate shells. These have even the toughest critics swooning. Available by the piece or in lovely coral 12-piece gift
    boxes.
  • Fran’s Salt Caramels: Buttery caramels, enrobed in either milk or dark chocolate, topped with the perfect amount of salt. These caramels have been inspiring love better than Cupid’s arrows since the mid-1980s. Available by the piece, in 7-piece sleeves, and in 20-piece gift boxes.

Speaking of salt caramels, don’t miss former Deli Zingernaut, Kathleen, who will be visiting from Seattle where she is currently employed with Fran’s Chocolates. She’ll have tasty treats in tow, ready to regale you with Fran’s trivia. Don’t miss the Hazelnut Diamonds!

FREE Fran’s Chocolates Demo!
Saturday, February 26th, 11am – 1pm
Zingerman’s Next Door

Pralus’ Diabolical Bar

One bite and you’ll understand; this is true love. Hazelnut & almond cream, dotted with whole Piedmont hazelnuts tucked inside a milk chocolate shell.

Hot chocolates!

What better way to enhance cozying up on the couch with your loved one? We’ve got Vosges Couture Cocoas, Mexican Drinking Chocolate, and delicious cocoa powders (requiring a bit of sugar and a touch of TLC) from Askinosie and (just-down-the-road-in-Dexter) Mindo Chocolate Makers!

El Rustico

Crunchy, stone-ground Soconosco and hand-chopped vanilla bean pair together for an aromatic & texturally unique chocolate. Get it while you still can! Soconosco & Vanilla Bean are star-crossed lovers; Askinosie has processed its final bags of this Mexican origin cacao, which will soon send El Rustico back to the drawing board.

Pralus Mini Pyramids

This miniature pyramid composed of tasting squares for each of Pralus’ tropical origins offers an exotic, chocolatey vacation. Taste your way from savory Sao Tome to jammy Madagascar; break each square in half and you’ve got a romantic getaway for two!

French Honey Nougat (Nougat de Montelimar)

To be classified as a Nougat de Montelimar, the product must contain lavender honey; while other producers just squeak by with the minimum necessary, Jacques Savin’s recipe is 30% honey, allowing the ingredient to shine. Soft and pliable with crunchy almonds & pistachios, this well-balanced sweet treat is sure to delight.

Zzang! Bars

Surprise a loved one with a Zzang! secretly tucked away in their coat pocket, purse, or bagged lunch. This trick is sure to warm a their heart!

Baking chocolate!

As someone who enjoys spending time in the kitchen, I’ve got a soft spot for our baking offerings. If you’ve read Ari’s Guide to Good Eating, you’re probably familiar with his emphasis on simple recipes featuring knock-out ingredients. The same goes with baking; you can take recipes up a notch with better butter, better sugar, and, of course, better chocolate. We presently offer Michel Cluizel Minigrams (chocolate chips) in a variety of percentages ranging from 60% to 99% as well as 45% Milk Chocolate and White Chocolate chips; Valrhona Baking Bars (perfect for roughly chopping into chunks!); and Mindo Chocolate Maker’s Unsweetened Baking Discs.

If you’ve got a recipe and feel like you might need a little help picking out the perfect chocolate, please email me  (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)  ! I’d love to help.

A word about those pesky imports…

I’ll wrap up these Chocolate News & Notes with a short comment about our import orders. Those of you familiar with ourimport offerings, have surely noticed a void. We did receive our Mexican chocolate and half of our Italian imports which include D. Barbero Hazelnut Torrone, D. Barbero Torroncino Cream, Ravera Chocolate Torrone and a few other items. We’ve had less success in getting the rest of our Italian product, as well as our Spanish Drinking Chocolate. The fate of the Spanish Drinking Chocolate remains up in the air, but I hope to see the rest of the Italian imports within the next couple of weeks. What does that include? Bonajuto Bars, Almond & Hazelnut barks, Guido Gobino Gianduja Spread, and a medley of candy jar treats (pistachio triple-layer fudge! hazelnut bites!). If you’d like to know when these products hit the deli floor, please shoot me an email  (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)   and I’ll add you to my call back log so that you don’t miss out.

Howdy and Happy New Year!

Allow me to virtually toast to you with a Sweet Gem Champagne truffle! I hope everyone’s 2011 is off to a grand start. I’m terribly thrilled because after a woeful, 2010 football season, the Texas Longhorns are off to a fantastic start! We’re back at 0-0!

Now, the New Year often brings talk of resolutions, many of which center on eating more healthily and exercising. That’s great. Kudos! But it’s not going to stop me from sharing some sweet things I am excited about this month. To echo my mom, “everything in moderation!”

Yours in Chocolate,

Zzang! Bars Promo!
All month long, when you buy two Zzang! bars,
you get a third one F-R-E-E!

Why not make a resolution to try a Zzang! for the very first time or to branch out and try a different kind? Charlie over at the Zingerman’s Candy Manufactory has devised four distinct and ever-so-delicious – FRESH – candy bars. Yes, fresh! With a maximum shelf life of 60 days (although they rarely, if ever, last that long at the Deli), this is not your run of the mill, gas station candy bar. The nuts in the Ca$hew Cow and Original actually taste nutty! The nougat inside the Wowza is a sweet raspberry cloud! The muscovado brown sugar caramel in the What the Fudge? has you asking where it’s been all your life.

I can’t emphasize it enough; January is the month to stock up on Zzangs! You can hide that free third one in your desk drawer, and come late February, when your resolutions about eating fewer sweets start creeping toward the back burner how amazing will it be to find a Zzang! chummin’ around with your pens and pencils?

For more on Charlie and his candy bars, pick up one of the January/February newsletters floating around at any one of the Zingerman’s businesses.

Zingerman’s Candy Manufactory’s Freddy R. will be demoing Zzang! bars at the Deli on Monday (MLK Day) from 11am to 1pm

Askinosie & Tanzania

Askinosie Chocolate recently accomplished a remarkable feat, the evidence of which quietly snuck onto Deli and Next Door shelves during the holiday rush in December. I’d love to take the opportunity to formally introduce it to y’all!

You may remember way back in July, I mentioned, in passing, what Shawn was up to. He was just about to embark on a voyage to Tenende, Tanzania with about a dozen high school students who, since the Fall of 2009 via Chocolate University’s “Cocoa Honors Program,” had been under his tutelage as he guided them through the process of selecting and sourcing cacao. Everyone made it back to Springfield, Missouri with a pretty remarkable experience under their belt. (Check out the Chocolate University website for photographs, more information, and fantastic first-hand accounts from students!) In addition to sourcing a new single-origin cacao, the project, through the fundraising efforts of its participants, also financed a deep water well to provide the residents of Tenede with clean water. Previously, the village had relied on either a contaminated well within village-limits or trekked hours to a neighboring well (which, cruelly, was often contaminated as well).

Please stop in an ask for a taste of the new bar – 72% Tanzania; it’s unquestionably my favorite Askinosie bar on the shelf. I recorded the following tasting notes in my journal: ‘Espresso, dried cherry, touch of smoke. Great balance of acidity and astringency with a very pleasant, slightly creamy mouthfeel.’ While nibbling on some the other day, mushrooms sautéed in sherry came to mind – yum!

In addition to the Tanzania bar, we’re also stocking Tanazanian nibs. Nibs are fermented, roasted, and crushed cacao beans. Roasty and nutty in flavor, nibs prove extremely versatile. While great on their own (perhaps you saw Ari sitting at his table in the Deli with a whole pound of them in a Ziploc bag?), they make a great addition to baked goods (Dorie Greenspan’s World Peace cookies; cornbread muffins; pecan pies…), grilling (grind ‘em up and use them in a spice rub), and on top of salads and gelato. Nibs are also the recent darling of the microbrewery world; I geeked out when I sat down to dine and noticed that Jolly Pumpkin’s Tortuga Ale Company Chocolate Stout is brewed with Patric Chocolates’ nibs from Madagascar. Similarly, brewers are jumping at the opportunity to use cacao husks/shells as well as cocoa powder to ramp up flavor in their chocolatey beers. Corner Brewery in Ypsi has been brewing their Mackinac Island Fudge with Mindo Chocolate Makers’ cocoa powder. Dreamy!

Last, but not least, I want to close my Chocolate News & Notes with a reminder that the Chocolate Gelato Tasting is fast approaching! Josh Miner, Don of Gelato at Zingerman’s Creamery, will be joining Em Hiber, beloved barista & Deli Gelato Maiden, to take us through the chocolatey goodness that will overtake the gelato case in February. Don’t miss out!

Chocolate Gelato Tasting with a real live gelato maker – Josh Miner from Zingerman’s Creamery

Tuesday, January 25th, 2010, 7-9 PM
There are few things in the world as delicious as Zingerman’s chocolate gelato! We wait with anticipation all year for the best month fo the year: Chocolate gelato month! Join our expert gelatier, Josh Miner and Deli Gelato Maiden Emily Hiber for a preview of this year’s selection. You’ll taste no-less-than seven different chocolate gelati, including dark chocolate, straberry balsamic, rocky ride and chocolate heat.
$25 reg. price / Save $5 by paying 2 days in advance, Call 734-663-3400 to save a seat!

Did you make it this far? That’s so sweet of you!
Here’s a special treat! I’ve got a wee surplus of Valrhona’s Ampamakia single-plantation chocolate. I can’t purchase any of the new 2010 harvest till my 2009 stock is gone. Allow me to help you help me. I’ve already put the bar on special, knocking $2 off the price. Bring in the coupon below for an additional $1 off! Tough to beat!

My Ampamakia tasting notes: ‘spicy aroma with a touch of fruit; creamy, round/full mouthfeel; cocoa powder, savory, vanilla really pops, dark roast, dried fruit (raisins?) in the finish.’

Margot’s Top 10 Chocolate Gifts for 2010

Happy Holidays dear readers!

December is here and I am super excited to start living in the present again! Since as early as September, I had been calculating usage and placing pre-orders for this gift-giving and cheer-filled month. Without a calendar in front of me, I’d often believe we were several weeks further into the future than we actually were. Now, however, I get to slow down, step back, and take it all in. Last Friday, I quietly sat by myself in the Next Door basement tying bows and tags on our Hammond’s candy canes. It wasn’t long before I had an insuppressible smile creeping across my face. I was transported back to my parent’s bedroom floor where I spent countless December evenings chomping on candy canes and wrapping gifts (For the record, this was a task not taken lightly in our household; I had been trained at young age by my mom who had spent some of her teenage years as a gift wrapper in a large Texas department store. Perfect creases, tight folds, well-placed bows).

The Next Door shelves are absolutely bursting at the seams with goodies begging to be wrapped up and gifted to friends and loved ones. Please stop in, look around, and taste a thing or two (or more!). Let us help make your holiday season a little sweeter.

Below are some items I am most excited about this holiday season – but, of course, only the tip of the iceberg! If you believe I can help you in any way to find the perfect gifts, please don’t hesitate to drop me an email (mmilleratzingermansdotcom  (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)  ). I always love hearing from y’all.

Yours in Chocolate,

Pralus Organic Pyramid
This attractive stack of organic chocolate bars from Francois Pralus in Roanne, France is sure to please the chocolate fanatic and/or eco-conscious person on your shopping list. It is a fantastic way to showcase the variety of flavors and aromas offered by the wide world of chocolate. Because each bar is a consistent 75% cacao, the collection illustrates how bean variety and origin, not just the ratio of cacao to sugar, play a big role in our experience of chocolate. Taste your way from Ecuador (espresso! toast!) to Madagascar (red berries! jam!).

Hammond’s All-Natural Candy Canes
Nothing says holiday cheer quite like colorful, hand-pulled candy canes! Our canes come from Hammond’s Candies in Colorado, which has been making them since 1920. Founder Carl Hammond stressed the importance of high-quality ingredients and the Depression only reinforced this guiding principle. If people found the money to buy candy, he wanted it to be the best they could buy. Ninety years later, these candy canes continue to be the perfect addition to holiday stockings everywhere!

Askinosie Peppermint Bark
Design geeks and sweet lovers alike can cheer for this holiday treat. Great packaging meets great food. A birch wood box, branded with a jaunty reindeer, encases full-flavored, handcrafted peppermint bark: a foundation of single origin dark chocolate is layered with Askinosie’s buttery, not-too-sweet white chocolate and then topped off with a slew of festive, crushed natural peppermint. This may be the gift you buy for someone else, but end up keeping to yourself. Don’t worry – I won’t tell.

D. Barbero Crema Torroncino
I absolutely could not resist the charming illustration of a small boy sneaking a taste of Crema Torroncino when I saw it over the summer at the Fancy Food Show. One taste and I knew why this little boy would risk getting caught with his fingers in the jar! D. Barbero in Asti, Italy has produced heavenly artisanal, hard torrone for five generations and this is the latest form through which to enjoy their handiwork. Simply put, imagine tossing hard torrone in a food processor: a couple of WHRRRR-WHRRRS and you’ve got Crema Torroncino. Piedmont hazelnuts, acacia honey, sugar and egg white in spreadable form. Forget visions of sugar plums – I’m dreaming of this stuff on toast, between layers of puff pastry, ribboned through gelato, and shamelessly eaten by the spoonful.

Poco Dolce Toffee Square Tins
If you’ve been keeping up with my recent Chocolate News & Notes, you’ll know I’m pretty gaga for these chocolate-covered toffee tiles from San Francisco. Don’t let the unassuming round metal tins fool you. Inside is a whopping half-pound (!!!) of buttery toffee enrobed in bittersweet chocolate. ‘Double Shot’ features toffee infused with housemade espresso while ‘Popcorn’ is just that – freshly popped popcorn folded right into the sea salt toffee.

Flora Pate de Fruit
When it comes to confections, a perfectionist is just who you want in the kitchen – and Flora Lazar of Flora Confections in Chicago fits the bill. Enamored with French pastry and confection since she was a young teen, Flora is a veritable force in the kitchen. Her pate de fruit sources fruit from Chicago’s Green City Market and the soft, almost-melt-in-your-mouth pieces burst with flavor. We sell her pate de fruit by the piece in our truffle case, as well as in clear 7-piece and 17-piece sleeves, which are a particularly stunning way to showcase the pate de fruit’s lovely jewel tones.

Ravera Chocolate Torrone
I must confess, I don’t know terribly much about Ravera, a small Italian cioccolateria located in Cherasco (about 30 miles southeast of Turin). From what I can tell through poor Google translating and my familiarity with Spanish, a sister romance language to Italian, Ravera was founded in 1982 by pastry chef Arturo Walter Ravera and his wife, Margaret. What began as a weekend hobby to fill free time and the tummies of friends soon became a professional endeavor. What I do know more about is how delicious Arturo and Margaret’s Torrone di Cioccolato is. Cherasco sits in the Piedmont region of Italy, so it should be no surprise that the hazelnuts in this confection are the crème de la crème. They provide a wonderfully nutty and crunchy contrast to the velvety and rich chocolate nougat into which they’re folded. This handmade chocolate nougat spells absolute bliss. Google Translator tells me Arturo holds the title of “Craftsman Radiance” and there is perhaps something perfect about this almost certainly imperfect translation.

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto Pepperoncini Truffles
From the same producers that brought you the wildly addictive “pink and red bars” a.k.a. Vanilla and Cinnamon Bonajuto bars (which you can again find on our shelves after a lengthy vacation), come these equally traditional pepperoncini “truffles.” These petite treats share the stone ground texture of the Bonajuto bars – a technique the Sicilians adopted from the Aztecs – but are markedly darker & deeper. The addition of red pepper extends their long finish with a little heat to wake up your taste buds.

Patric PBJ OMG!
This was one of the three, top secret new Patric bars that were unveiled at our tasting with chocolate maker Alan McClure back in September. Alan takes his Malagasy chocolate (full of notes of red berries and jam) and peanut butter and throws it right in the melangeur (the mixer) along with some salt and sugar to form this jump-out-of-your-chair delicious bar! Just try to resist exclaiming “PBJ OMG!” after popping a bite of this in your mouth. A great gift for Grandpa, your young niece, your brother-in-law, or your Secret Santa recipient! This will be a seasonal bar for Patric. Alan plans to put it on vacation at the end of December, so get what you can while it is still in stock.

Charles Chocolates Nut Tins
As the Chocolate Lady I taste my fair share of confections sent by prospective vendors. Nuts and chocolate are a classic pairing, but all too often are woefully disappointing as a result of low-quality ingredients. Imagine my delight upon tasting triple chocolate nuts from Charles Chocolates in San Francisco! Chuck roasts his West Coast hazelnuts and almonds to highlight their delicious flavor and lend a satisfying crunch. Once cooled, they are dipped multiple times in a signature blend of milk and bittersweet chocolates and finished with a light dusting of cocoa powder. These adorable tins are sure to impress the nut lover (hi Mom!) on your list this holiday season.

The Truffle Case!
December is a terribly exciting month for the truffle case because I can really pull out all the stops. We’ve got a mesmerizing mix of truffles, each one a miniature work of art. Looks are only half of it though; these confections are mouthwateringly good! We can’t wait to pack you up a custom assortment.

  • Chocolat Moderne’s Hazelnut Hysterie, this hazelnut praline (nuts & sugar) in a thin, dark chocolate shell chocolate exudes perfection.
  • Chocolate in Chelsea’s Salted Burnt Caramel, Cathy Selin cranks things up a notch with the evenhanded addition of salt to her already outstanding burnt caramel. enclosed in a petite multi-faceted chocolate shell.
  • Sweet Gem Confection’s Eggnog, growing up I was pretty adverse to the concept of egg nog. If only this treat had been my introduction! Nancy’s ganache features local Calder Dairy eggnog.
  • Grocer’s Daughter’s Rosemary, Mimi infuses her dark chocolate ganache with fresh rosemary – savory and not too sweet!
  • Michel Cluizel’s Caramel Mushrooms, always a hit! A stem of buttery caramel dipped in white chocolate, topped with a chocolate cap filled with almond praline. I could really go on and on… Chai Latte, Baby Bourbon, Spicy Mayan, Raspberry Caramels, Amarena Cherries…

My Personal Wish List
(Are you reading this Mom & Dad?)

  • Dos Cafeteras Café au Lait Candies
  • Agrimontana Fruit Gellies
  • Flora Locavore (Pecans & Michigan Cherries) Nougat
  • Vosges Marzipan Stuffed Bar
  • Patric In-NIB-itable Bar
  • D. Barbero Crema Torroncino
  • Pralus Equateur (75% Cacao) Bar
  • Cocoa Puro Kakawa (chocolate dipped cacao beans)
  • Claudio Corallo Chocolate with Crystallized Orange
  • Fran’s Ginger Thins

October 2010

Howdy!

I must be having a ridiculous amount of fun because the month of October has flown right by!

I’ve relished in the turning leaves, the crisp air, apple picking (and subsequent buttery apple muffins & apple-ginger jam!), and hot drinks in the Next Door. My beloved Texas Longhorns aren’t looking quite up to spec this football season, but I suppose I can’t win ‘em all. October marks my one-year anniversary with the Deli. It doesn’t seem that long ago that I was reciting sandwich names and weaving in between guests with bountiful trays of food. With that said, I want to send a heartfelt thanks to co-workers past & present and all you lovely guests who have made my inaugural year more fun that I could have ever dreamed.

So what have I been up to this October? Last fall, Chocolate Lady Emeritus Duff likened herself to a nervous squirrel and I now understand the sentiment completely. I’m deep in preparations for the holiday season, ordering boxes and boxes of yummy products to squirrel away and feed us throughout the winter season. Soon adding to the excitement are the beginning stages of the Deli Build-Out; storage spaces will probably get a little tight, but rest-assured, I’ll build a candy & chocolate fortress around my desk if that means getting the necessary inventory to satisfy your cravings!

I’ll keep the rest of this newsletter short and sweet by bringing your attention to a few goodies I’m particularly excited about which have recently arrived or are due in the next week or so. As always, I love hearing from you – so drop me a line at mmilleratzingermansdotcom  (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)   with your sweet requests, questions, or comments!

For the Twitterers out there, follow me on Twitter! Get the immediate scoop on product arrivals, chocolate trivia, answers to your chocolate questions, tasting notes, and more!

Also, don’t forget! Tomorrow is the 5th Annual Halloween Hootenanny! For more on this fall-themed celebration for kids, see the Deli’s Events & Tastings Page.

Patric Chocolate
Alan McClure, the guy behind Patric Chocolate, visited the Deli on the last day in September, co-hosting a tasting with me in which he unveiled, not one, not two, but THREE new chocolate bars. If guests’ reactions at the tasting are any indication, you’d do well to get yourself here soon and jump on the Patric bandwagon.

The new bars which will be joining our lineup are a 70% Signature Blend, a 70% Dark Milk (Come taste this, milk chocolate naysayers! It’s a whole different animal!), and the PBJ OMG! – Alan’s Malagasy chocolate, full of notes of red berries and jam, mixed with peanut butter and molded into a dangerously delicious bar. I’ve placed my official first order for the new bars and am hoping to have them on the shelves by the first week in November, if not sooner.

Poco Dolce Toffee Tiles
I mentioned this company back in August in my Fancy Food Show recap. The time has come to bring their delicious chocolate-covered toffee tiles to the Deli! I unveiled one of the two all-natural flavors already: Double Shot – toffee infused with housemade espresso. The other? Popcorn! Buttery, sea-salt toffee with freshly popped popcorn folded right.

Dos Cafeteras Café au Lait Candies
The relationship between Dos Cafeteras and the Deli precedes not only my Chocolate Lady appointment, but at least another year before I was even living in the state of Michigan! The history of Dos Cafeteras goes back even further – to 1886! In Pamplona, Spain, a man by the name of Don Claudio Lozano carefully attended to a mixture of milk, sugar, glucose, and coffee, slowly cooking over a low flame. Can you imagine the aroma? The neighbors couldn’t keep away! As with so many artisan food companies, the results of a weekend hobby are shared with friends who remark that the creator would be crazy not to sell their goods – and so, in 1912, Don Claudio did just that. Dos Cafeteras (“the Two Coffeepots”) was officially born.

The company has remained true to the original recipe – keeping away from artificial colors and flavors – and relies on the slow cooking time to develop complexity of flavor. After cooking the candy, the sweets are stored away in a humidity and temperature controlled cellar – much like a fine wine – where they age for three months in order to finalize the desired flavor and unique texture.

Now, I’ll be completely honest. I was a little skeptical of these candies at first. There’s no real American “reference point.” They’re not exactly hard candies and they’re certainly not a traditional chewy, soft caramel. The texture is somewhere in between. I advise allowing one to melt in your mouth like a lozenge, which allows for a slow unfolding of the caramelized sugar and the round flavor of coffee and milk. Only after I’ve enjoyed the candy this way, do I then start to chew. I know, it’s perhaps a strange way to approach a candy, but it’s simply a matter of retraining yourself – and it’s totally worth it! I’ve got an empty Dos Cafeteras box sitting on my desk to prove it. You can bet that I’ll be making the first Dos Cafeteras purchase as soon as they arrive.

The Truffle Case
The truffle case has been looking exceptionally bountiful as of late. Cooler temperatures mean less precarious shipping situations, so I’ve been bringing in a bunch of delicious (and lovely-looking!) treats. Here are some new and old friends I’ve welcomed to the case recently:

From Fran’s Chocolates in Seattle:
Coconut Gold Bars, they’re here! Rich coconut, white chocolate, and a touch of rum, topped with whole almonds and enrobed in dark chocolate. Almond Joy’s Granddaddy. In the words of Next Door Barista Em H. upon seeing them in the case, “Oh my gosh! I’ve waited seven years for their return!” I’ve got a limited supply! Come get yours today.

From Chocolat Moderne in New York City:
Hazelnut Hysterie, perfectly crunchy hazelnut praliné (ground up sugar and nuts) in a thin dark chocolate shell.

Baby, from Joan’s new milk chocolate collection, a four-year-aged bourbon from a distillery in New York perfectly paired with a creamy, not-too-sweet milk chocolate ganache. My favorite right now!

From Charles Chocolates in San Francisco:
Jasmine Tea & Fire-Roasted Oolong Tea, two truffles using exceptionally good tea from Teance in Berkeley, California to flavor rich, deep ganaches. I’m continually blown away by how clean and clear these truffles taste. There’s no muddling of flavor. The Deli’s retail staff have been particularly vocal in their adoration of them.

From Ann Arbor’s own Sweet Gem Confections:
Milk Chocolate Mint, the name really says it all; cream infused with mint – real mint, not harsh mint extracts – combined with milk chocolate in a smooth ganache, dipped in dark chocolate.

Pumpkin Hazelnut, pumpkin pureé combined with a gianduja (hazelnut & chocolate) ganache, dipped in white chocolate.

This is all the tip of the iceberg! Stay tuned next month for my holiday gift guide.

Yours in Chocolate,

September 2010

Howdy!

It has been a mere month since we last spoke and in those few weeks, fall appears to have tiptoed in. Try as Fall may to sneak around undetected – slipping in between football games, the return of students, and Labor Day – I’ve noticed. My clues? Reaching for my blanket in a sleepy stupor at the chill of nighttime air; giddiness at the opportunity to zip up a light hoodie; and, perhaps most exciting after months of iced Americanos, hot drinks no longer seeming a blasphemous order in the Next Door.

To usher in the hot beverage season, the baristas are whipping up hot cups of Mexican Drinking Chocolate, our Next Door Drink of the Month! We combine chopped Mexican chocolate (cacao, sugar, cinnamon, and almonds!) and a splash or two of water, using our “modern day molinillo”, a.k.a. steam wand, to froth the mixture. You’re left with a very aromatic cup of chocolate that tastes light and fresh (bananas always come to mind, but that remark often prompts blank stares – what do you taste?). The almonds are less about adding flavor and more about adding a little richness to the body. The cinnamon is gracefully balanced, adding a little spice without being overblown and searing. If Fall tries to disappear momentarily, ask for the drink iced! I like this version with a little bit of milk.

In addition to serving Mexican Drinking Chocolate, we also sell the chocolate in the Next Door, offering you the opportunity to make it at home. In the one pound brown bags, you will find several “lincoln logs” of chocolate. As you begin chopping, you may notice the beautiful striations in the chocolate, which make me think of highways in the West, cutting through huge rock formations, exposing millions of years of strata. Traditional Mexican chocolate is stone-ground and not heavily refined, thus lending a crunchy texture to and preserving a lot of brightness in the end product. In addition to chopping Mexican chocolate for drinks, I enjoy nibbling on small pieces; technically speaking, it’s a sweeter chocolate than I might usually opt for, but there’s a lightness and freshness to it that is extremely compelling.

Our Mexican chocolate comes from Oaxaca, Mexico via Susana Trilling of Seasons of My Heart. Susana is an absolute authority on Oaxacan cuisine and culture with books, TV shows, and a cooking school under her belt. She is also a vendor with whom the Deli has had a very long relationship. While at the Fancy Food Show in June, Reina, Duff and I had the pleasure of meeting Susana at the Mexican Pavilion. It was quite the thrill to meet such an icon in the flesh! (Duff and Susana pictured here.) Susana exuded genuine warmth and kindness and we found ourselves back at her booth a couple more times, seeking a friendly face and respite and surprised with little bits of sustenance (hand-rolled Mexican chocolate truffles!).

Before I sign off, I want to remind y’all about the extra special chocolate tasting at the end of the month. Join Zingerman’s in welcoming Alan McClure of Patric Chocolate (based in Columbia, MO and one of a handful of small, American bean-to-bar producers) to the Deli on September 30th. Come learn about his company, his chocolate, and his recent projects! I can say in good confidence that a couple of Top Secret new chocolates will be making their debut; come be one of the first folks in the country to taste them! I also encourage you to bring you best questions; Alan proves time and time again to be a (chocolate) fount of knowledge.

Yours in Chocolate,

Patric Chocolate Tasting
with Alan McClure
Thursday, September 30th, 7-9pm

$35 reg. price
Save $5 by paying two days in advance!
Call 734.663.3400 to save your seat!

For more information about this tasting and others at the Deli, please visit our Events & Tastings page.

August 2010

Howdy y’all!

August already? I hope everyone has been keeping cool this summer. I’d love to pretend that my Texas blood has primed me for the heat, but in the interest of full disclosure, be it known that as soon as the mercury starts pushing 80, I begin a frantic search for a cool breeze and an icy drink. Chocolate similarly sweats (ha, ha) the heat and this summer has had its fair share of excitement; on more than one occasion, I’ve had vendors refuse to part with their chocolate until the temperatures seem less threatening. Can’t say I blame ‘em!

It’s been a little over a month since the 56th Summer Fancy Food Show in New York City and I’m ready to share my experience with you! To give you a brief idea, the Food Show takes place in the monstrous Javits Convention Center (331,000 square feet of exhibition space! That’s more than five football fields combined!) which, over the course of three days, is filled with tens of thousands of people — manufacturers, retailers, distributors, importers, and more! They come to learn, to discover, to taste, to meet new friends, and catch up with the old.

This was my very first food show and I didn’t know quite what to expect. In the weeks leading up to our departure, I was coached by a number of Zingernauts who were food show veterans. Primary messages that I took away were that the Italians would wear suits, leaving me feeling underdressed anytime I stepped into their pavilion, and that I needed to maintain at least a semi-consciousness of what all I was eating. All too suddenly you can find yourself consuming only olives, or only salamis, or, in my case, only chocolates. Your taste buds cry out for contrast – and you’re a mess until you can find it. In order to prevent such catastrophe, I made sure to devise an emergency exit plan which would lead me directly to my preferred antidote: the Rick’s Picks artisanal pickle table.

As if delicious food wasn’t enough to get excited about, this year’s summer food show overlapped with another major international event – the World Cup! It was not difficult to guess the days’ matches based on which countries’ pavilions were ghost towns, their participants flooding the Javits’ lobby where flat screens broadcasted the tournament. Ever so often, a great roar would rumble through the halls and it was hard not to get caught up in the fever pitch.

As you can see, I made it back home all in one piece and, having met so many of our current and future vendors, feeling all the more initiated as your new Chocolate Lady. While the Fancy Food Show is “For the Trade Only,” it is you, the guest, who keeps me in this “trade” at the end of the day. Your love of chocolates and confections warms my heart, so allow me to attempt to reciprocate with some of my insider notes! Thanks in advance for your interest and, as always, I love hearing from you, be it via email (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)  (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)   or in person.

Chocolate Lady

Taza Chocolate (Somerville, MA)
You know these guys from the Mexicanos we carry: stone-ground, “hockey pucks” in four different flavors, which make a fun sweet treat or, with a bit more effort, fantastic chocolate drinks! (For a recipe, stop by their website).

The Taza Booth felt like the bar from “Cheers.” Every time I walked by, the place was absolutely hopping; you couldn’t help but run into someone you knew. The Taza Crew absolutely radiated their excitement about having just completed a renovation in their Somerville factory; their vision to begin sourcing cacao from Belize; and their two new Mexicano flavors, elected by popular vote.

It is this sort of enthusiasm which I am sure has buoyed Taza in the month or so since the show; about a week after returning home, a deluge of rain flooded their new digs. Their inventory survived, but their new offices were ruined and chocolate production was halted for a week. Chocolate enthusiasts around the country have rallied behind them and they seem to be getting back on their feet. I raise my glass of Mexicano hot chocolate to them!

Michel Cluizel (Damville, France)
A very excited Jacques Dahan greated us at the Cluizel booth, eager to report on some changes to the Cluizel line as well as to introduce us to a couple new products. A number of the bars will be getting a cosmetic makeover; Cluizel will be introducing thinner bars in the name of a more pleasurable tasting experience. I suppose one can’t argue with that sort of reasoning!

We tasted the new Salted Caramel Bar (think full flavored milk chocolate with toffee shavings) which elicited smiles all around. Keep your eyes peeled; this gem will appear on our shelves in early September.

We were also stoked to hear that the Los Ancones bar, made from cacao sourced from a single plantation in the Dominican Republic, will soon be certified organic. I like to imagine that this was a farewell gift to Duff, Chocolate Lady Emeritus, who gushed about Los Ancones up until her last day at the Deli (coincidentally, I arrived to work the very next day to find our shelves abnormally depleted. I have a sneaking suspicion someone was stocking up.).

Poco Dolce (San Francisco, CA)
Poco What? Poco Dolce – from the Italian, meaning “not too sweet!” This vendor will soon be the new kid on the block at the Deli. Hailing from San Francisco and headed up by Kathy Wiley, this little company churns out some all-natural and addictive little chocolate-coated toffee tiles. Poco Dolce was honored with a SOFI Gold at the Fancy Food Show in the Outstanding Chocolate Category and I can’t wait to place my first order with them as soon as the weather cools down a bit. I’ll be bringing in two flavors in adorable metal tins that beg to be repurposed once emptied of their treats. One of the two flavors is ‘Double Shot’ – toffee infused with housemade espresso! The other flavor? I’m keeping that a secret!
Vosges Haut-Chocolat (Chicago, IL)
The Vosges booth was an absolute tornado of activity. Fashion-forward and savvy ladies (larger than life founder Katrina Markoff included!) staffed it, dishing out recipes for chocolate paninis, preparing cut and bake cookies with a little convection oven, extolling the virtues of cold chocolate drinks, and talking up their ever-expanding product line. As mentioned, ever so briefly in last month’s Chocolate News & Notes, Vosges is introducing eight – you read that correctly – EIGHT new bars, half of which will be seasonal. In addition to the traditional ‘exotic bar’ format, some of the new bars are stuffed bars – decadent fillings enrobed in chocolate. Here’s the name of another new one to keep you salivating: Blood Orange Caramel. I’ll keep you in the know as to when these begin popping up on our shelves.
Chocolat Moderne (NYC)
The Fancy Food Show was actually my second time meeting Joan Coukos-Todd, the punchy lady behind New York City’s Chocolat Moderne. I first met her back in February, where she graciously welcomed my parents and me into her Chelsea workspace and I had my first taste of her Banane Flambée truffle, now in the Next Door case. Joan reported to us that her Moderne Bars (chocolate and toffee bars paired with exotic spices and flavors), which she introduced last year, have transformed her business, allowing her increased visibility as a chocolatier. I’m continually impressed by her hard work; she approaches her business with a keen and critical eye, ever re-examining and asking how she can be doing things better. Back in her company kitchen, she’s revisiting milk chocolate (oft-unfairly cast as the ugly stepsister of dark chocolate!) in a collection of sinful bonbons (I should know; I took home a box of them and had truffles for breakfast for a little over a week!).
Fran’s Chocolates (Seattle, WA)
We were excited to find the whole Bigelow Family working the booth! Fran opened her first chocolate shop twenty-five years ago and still approaches her craft with unflagging passion. Her two children, Andrina & Dylan, have joined the ranks and were eager to report that their Seattle shops (a third location opened recently!) are weathering the economic storm well. The population’s willingness to splurge on their grey and smoked salt caramels reminds me of Americans’ devotion to movie theaters throughout the Great Depression!

While stopped at the Fran’s Booth, Duff casually inquired about the fate of the famed Coconut Gold Bar. My ears perked up, as I had only heard about this product when people, responding to my admission that I have a soft spot for Almond Joys, wistfully told me how much I would have loved it. Andrina explained the perishable nature of the product and concern that retailers might not keep enough of an eye on the product, failing to pull it from shelves when necessary. Now here’s the fun news: Fran’s, recognizing Zingerman’s commitment to Great Food, is willing to sell us the Coconut Gold Bars in very limited quantities at a time. We’ll plan to sell them from our truffle case, as well as accept special orders so that you’re guaranteed one when you stop in! Please email me (mmilleratzingermansdotcom  (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)  ), if you’d like to be part of this!

Grocer’s Daughter (Empire, MI) and Mindo Chocolate Makers (Dexter, MI)
While in New York City, who better to sit down with for breakfast than some fellow Michiganders? Mimi Wheeler of Grocer’s Daughter and Barbara Wilson & Joe Meza of Mindo Chocolate Makers joined us at City Bakery to chomp on pretzel croissants and regale us with tales of truffle and chocolate production. Mimi continues to find success and support in the Traverse City area, as people increasingly embrace and celebrate local ingredients and products. She’s also recently captivated by cacao marmalade, which spurred an interesting discussion around the table. Barbara & Joe continue to work hard to upgrade their production facilities; they are on the path to replacing their Champion Juicer (yes, originally intended for things like citrus!) with a real grinder, as well as obtaining a larger volume cocoa press. They’ve also made friends with one of the master brewers at Corner Brewery in Ann Arbor who is making beer using their nibs, powder, and cacao husks. Creativity and ideas energized this breakfast and I left realizing that Mimi, Barbara, and Joe are perfect examples of serial entrepreneurs – a christening I intend in only the most admirable of tones!
Attavola (a.k.a. the source of our Italian imports!)
There’s nothing quite like kisses on the cheek from a dapperly dressed Italian fellow who then sits you down to talk about sweets! I’ll begin with some disappointing news – something I’ve been dying to get off my chest. We will not be receiving the Pistachio Butter that you may recall from the last winter holiday season. There appears to have been a bit of a lovers’ quarrel. I don’t have any details, but I thought you should know.

Enough dwelling, it’s time to accentuate the positive! You may have noticed the disappearance of the Antica Dolceria Bonajuto bars from our shelves. Fear not; these red (cinnamon) and pink (vanilla) boxes enclosing aromatic and minimally processed chocolate will be back come late October/early November. I also had the opportunity to taste a peperoncino chocolate by the same company. It sounds bizarre, but trust me when I tell you it is considered a very traditional Sicilian flavor. Depending on how tight my import purse strings are, you may see this product on our shelves.

Torrone (nougat) is another crown jewel of Italian confections, and D. Barbero products will grace the Deli again as well. In addition to the hard hazelnut torrone we had last season, I anticipate bringing in a beautiful pistachio torrone (See? All is not lost in the land of the pistachio.). Also coming from D. Barbero will be perhaps the most fun thing I saw at the Food Show (The Mona Lisa recreated with jelly beans excluded). I baited you last month with a photo of the product’s packaging. Here’s a little more info: it’s LIQUID TORRONE! D. Barbero more or less ground up their hazelnut torrone and jarred it. The texture is a little bit gritty, but the flavor is dreamy – honey, hazelnuts – mmm. Perhaps there’s a use for such a product in a recipe, but I imagine you’ll be able to find me eating it straight by the spoonful.

July Chocolate News and Notes

This month’s newsletter is all about your new Chocolate Lady – Margot Miller! Ta-dah! Margot’s official first day at the helm is August 1st and I am so very excited for her. I asked her some questions – some serious, some goofy, all enlightening – as a sort of icebreaker. I laughed (really hard), I teared up, I even learned something new about hog wrestling – believe me, her responses will endear her to you.

I hope that you all have a chance to meet Margot in person soon! The next time you are in the Deli, please ask for her and say “howdy.” Or if you don’t live in town, send a virtual welcome to mmilleratzingermansdotcom  (mmilleratzingermansdotcom)  . You will be hearing from her soon in the August Chocolate News and Notes, in which she will reveal the much-anticipated (and semi-top-secret) 2010 Fancy Food Show chocolate report!

As for me – It has been a joy to write to you these last few years. Your kind notes and thoughtful responses to this newsletter were always the best part of my day! And for those of you that I’ve had a chance to meet and work with in person – thank you. You better believe that the best part of this job isn’t the chocolate . . . it’s the people. Getting to know you folks has been a great, great privilege. I will miss you! I am doing one last tasting at the Deli on July 15th – it would be fun to see you there.

Wishing you continued choco-adventures! Wishing you continued choco-adventures!
Duff


duffatzingermansdotcom  (duffatzingermansdotcom)  
734-663-5282

INTERVIEW WITH CHOCOLATE LADY MARGOT MILLER
Duff: Where are you from Margot?
Margot: I’m from Austin, Texas. The home of a sweet treat we carry in the Next Door: Cocoa Puro’s Kaka’wa, a.k.a. Nuggets of Joy! Some things I miss include breakfast tacos, Barton Springs Pool, sleepy East Side honky tonks, the amusingly high ratio of coffee shops to population, and the wealth of really good Thai restaurants.

Duff: How did you end up at Zingerman’s?
Margot: Funny you should ask. I was familiar with Zingerman’s only in the most abstract of ways after seeing their Mail Order catalog at a friend’s house in Chicago. Last summer I moved from Austin to Ann Arbor to pursue a Master’s in Architecture. After a semester, I realized that I had reached a pretty miserable state of existence. Now, please understand that I’m a pretty classic type A personality. I don’t quit things. Type As are “stress junkies.” We endure. So I started my second semester but after about 3 days into it, I realized I couldn’t keep up with it. So I quit. I’m pretty sure my best friend back home thought I had lost my mind. I took the next logical step which was to look for a job. Zingerman’s Deli was hiring runners/bussers. So I applied.

Duff: What chocolate bars are you enjoying at the moment?
Patric 70% with Nibs, Michel Cluizel Maralumi, Claudio Corallo 80%, Rogue Hispaniola

Duff: What do you do when you aren’t at the Deli?
Margot: I’m a diehard Texas Longhorn football fan, so during football season Saturdays you can more than likely find me on a couch, yelling at the television. Other hobbies include cooking (Indian food is a favorite! Check out books by Madhur Jaffrey!); some recent forays into baking; miscellaneous creative endeavors big and small (I have a degree in studio art); proofreading; reading nonfiction; and falling asleep with cookbooks on my face.

Duff: Do you have any favorite accessories?
Margot: I live and die by my iPhone. Other things I often have on me include my purse shaped like a rabbit which was previously my Mom’s; a necklace with a teeny coffee cup (the coffee cup is the only thing I’ve ever found with my name on it); a signet ring from the school I attended for 1st through 12th grade; and two small silver bracelets which I had stamped with ‘Have Courage’ and ‘Be of Good Cheer’ – my late Grandpa’s way of signing each and every piece of correspondence.

Duff: OK this one is requisite – how about your top five music albums?
Margot: This question makes me wish I was as cool as Rob Gordon in “High Fidelty.”

Elliott Smith – Either/Or
Big Star – #1 Record
Iron & Wine – The Shepherd’s Dog
David Bowie – Ziggy Stardust
Rilo Kiley – The Execution of All Things

Duff: What is your favorite body of water?
Margot: My mother raised me with a more than healthy fear of the creatures of the deep. We vacationed to the Texas Gulf Coast each year and my shallow dips in the ocean were punctuated by my mother screaming, “SHARKS ARE CAPABLE OF SWIMMING IN LESS THAN THREE FEET OF WATER!” So I’d say that oceans are probably not my favorite body of water. My exception to that that rule would be my favorite body of water: the Mediterranean Sea. I swam and swam and swam in a little rocky cove; the water was so crisp and clear, allowing me to reason that I’d be able to see the sea monsters before they reached me. My slightly more realistic body of water in terms of ever swimming there again would be Barton Springs in Austin; it’s a man-made pool fed by natural, underground springs. It’s home to the Barton Springs Salamander (Eurycea sosorum), an endangered species Austinites fiercely protect.

Duff: Do you have any pets?
Margot: Presently, my parents are acting as parental guardians for my grey tabby, Cass, who is back in Texas. His full name is Cass Gilbert, named for the late 19th/early 20th century architect who designed Sutton Hall and Battle Hall at the University of Texas. He enjoys eating banana chips, jumping to the highest points he can, and riding around on people’s shoulders. My father routinely shaves his face with Cass wrapped around his neck. To be honest, I am not sure I’ll ever get the cat back from my parents. They seem awfully attached. I recently received a CD with a folder of photos of what Cass was up to in Austin.

Duff: Name some sports you love, please.
Margot: I’ve got lots of favorites. I’ve already mentioned my affinity for Longhorn Football. In terms of sports I played, I was the pipsqueak on the varsity basketball team and the smallest goalie in my field hockey conference. ‘Scrappy’ and ‘hustle’ were terms oft-used to describe my technique in both sports.

The aforementioned qualities also, I think, ensured my success in a new sports realm: Hog Wrestling. My friend Lucy and I are the 2004 Bandera Middleweight Champions. We had been in Bandera, Texas with some friends, attending a bar-b-q festival. There was talk of hog wrestling, and ultimately, Lucy and I were badgered into signing up. I guarantee no one thought we would have a chance. The announcer called us city folk and our opponents were as country as they come. Lucy was wearing designer jeans and I had no cowboy boots to my name. To give you a general idea of hog wrestling, you’re left in a large circular pen into which a hog storms. You must catch and bag it, the latter activity being the most trying part. Once bagged, you must drag it across a line in the center of the pen. Lucy and I entered the pen, shook hands with the timekeeper, and tried not to visibly shake in fear. The whistle blew and we were off! 36 seconds later, that hog was caught, bagged, and dragged. In the words of the announcer, “What [we] lacked in size, [we] made up in speed and cunning.”

My sister and I are hoping to attend the Bandera Wild Hog Explosion in the Spring of 2011 so that I may hog wrestle once again.

Duff: What is your most valuable (sentimental value) possession?
Margot: Oh gosh. I’m going to name two. The first is the belt buckle I received for the hog wrestling. It may be the most one of a kind thing I own. The second possession is a Syracuse China creamy colored ironstone mug with a loosely sketched blue eagle crest on it. It’s not particularly old (1978) and probably wasn’t acquired by my family until the early 1990s, but I hold it dear because it was the coffee mug my Grandpa used every day back when we used to have a little country house in East Texas.

Duff: What is the best meal you’ve ever had?
Margot: Outside of Las Terrenas, on the Samaná Peninsula in the Dominican Republic. While walking the shoreline, trying to find the beach the guidebook described as an absolute paradise, I came upon a little shack where a husband had just returned with a small cooler of freshly caught fish. The wife grilled it whole with a simple blend of salt and spices and served it with some beans and rice.

Duff: What vegetables do you love to eat? You can name one for each season, if you want.
Margot: As a vegetable fanatic since I was a baby, I both love and hate this question. So many to choose from! Radishes. Mustard greens. Peppers. Brussels sprouts.

Duff: How about your top two beverages?
Margot: Thanks for allowing me to gush about soda water. I leave a trail of La Croix sparkling water wherever I go.
Number two, morning edition would be a short Americano with room for cream.
Number two, evening edition would be a gin and tonic, always with a twist of lime.

Duff: Where is your favorite vacation spot?
Margot: I have a huge crush on Montreal. I’m itching to get back, especially in a month that’s not freezing cold (The maple syrup lollipops made by pouring fresh syrup into little snowbanks almost made the below freezing temperatures worth it.).
I also love the food culture of New Orleans; my family visited there just about every year when I was growing up. It’s been a little too long since I feasted on beignets and café au lait at Café Du Monde. I think it’s also about time that I visited with a palm reader on the French Quarter.

Duff: What else should we know about you?
Margot: Well I already disclosed the hog wrestling. Let’s think…

1. I have a horrific fear of broken glass and given my track record of glass breaking in my vicinity, my mother is convinced that I emanate an energy that pulls glass objects from where they’re sitting to their shattered demise on the floor.

2. I’m pretty much living the dream right now at Zingerman’s. If I wanted to live the dream in another fashion, I’d be pining for a job with Willet Stained Glass Studios in Philadelphia. They’ve been making and restoring stained glass windows for over 100 years. One person’s job entails searching through their massive collection of glass color chips to find the right color for each part of a window’s design. This is what I’d want to do.

Duff: Can you give us any chocolate sneak peeks for the holiday? Stuff you are excited to bring in later this year?
Margot: Askinosie Chocolate may have a new origin bar for us by the holidays. This new bar is part of a larger project called Cocoa Honors. Since the fall of 2009, Shawn’s been meeting with 15 high schoolers and taking them through the steps involved with sourcing cocoa and developing long-term partnerships with cocoa farmers. Shawn Askinosie & crew have raised the money needed to get their high schoolers to Tanzania this August to visit the woman-run co-op that will be supplying their cacao. I urge you to read more about this remarkable program at their website: http://chocolateuniversity.org/

Vosges Haut-Chocolat continues to excite with 8 new bars! I’ll whet your appetite: Sicilian Marzipan. Just the mention of it provoked a symphony of oohs and ahhs at our most recent Next Door Team Meeting.

I was recently able to taste a number of products by D. Barbero, who makes the Italian hazelnut torrone we carry. They also have a pistachio torrone that is not only a gem to look at, but maintains the same quality of flavor we love in the hazelnut.

I’ll be a little bit coy now and just include a picture from the packaging of a product that pretty much illustrates my giddiness for it. Keep your ears to the ground!

Duff: I’m a nickname girl so I’ve got to ask – do you have any?
Margot: Have I ever. Mar, MarMar, Marge, Margs, Meer, Mkat, Shrimp, Smalls, and Goat.

June 2010 – FATHER’S DAY EDITION

Father’s Day is coming up soon and I am here to assure all of you that, despite the stereotypes out there, guys really do like fancy chocolate. Especially dads. It’s true! He might not talk about it much, he might not buy it for himself, but dad probably secretly likes caramels and chocolate bars just as much as mom and wishes he had a secret stash of his own. I’ve started a list of especially dad-friendly treats for your consideration, just to get you thinking!

And it’s that time of year again! Believe it or not, a little later this month I’ll be headed to the Fancy Food Show in NYC to scout great chocolates and confections for the Deli. You can be sure I will publish a full report of my findings upon my return, giving you a sneak peek of things to come later this fall and into the holidays! Next month’s chocolate newsletter will also be the last one written from my desk, as I’m leaving the Deli at the start of August to pursue other adventures. Next month, I’ll formally introduce you to your new Chocolate Lady – Deli superstar Margot Miller — and bid farewell! But for now, let’s get down to business: What are you getting for the dad in your life this Father’s Day? And don’t even think of saying socks or golf balls . . . I’m talking about chocolate here! Special thanks to Margot for her help with this list and for the great tasting notes!

Chocolate Lady Duff


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1. Vosges Bacon+ Chocolate Bars

This is the bar that deserves a spot in every Dad’s desk drawer. Zingerman’s own Mo Frechette (the fella behind the Mail Order Catalog) was a big inspiration for this bar, ultimately convincing Katrina and her team that – indeed – everything is better with bacon! How fitting that Mo just became a new daddy (congratulations!) and that this bar is on the top of my Father’s Day list. Let’s not over-think this: if chocolate bars had a gender, the bacon bars would most likely be boys. Crispy crumbles of applewood smoked bacon and smoked salt play nicely together in both the milk chocolate and the dark chocolate version of this uber-popular bar. Don’t say we didn’t warn you – you might be committing yourself to years and years of bacon bar purchases after dad takes a bite of this.
2. Rabitos Royale Spanish Figs
For the Dad who savors an after-dinner cordial, look no further than these! Tender, seedy little Spanish figs, stuffed with a brandy-spiked ganache and dunked in dark chocolate. One of our most popular confections, these figs have already won the hearts of many – why not introduce them to dad? Each fig is individually wrapped – the perfect nightcap to the end of a busy Father’s Day.
3. Mindo Cocoa Powder
Who says cocoa powder is just for baking? You may remember Joe and Barbara of Mindo Chocolate Makers, who we welcomed to the Next Door last month to demo their cocoa powder and unsweetened chocolate discs (they made a decadent flourless chocolate cake!) This dual-hemisphere dwelling pair – half the year in Ecuador, half the year right down the street in Dexter, MI! — has got another winner up their sleeve with their Cocoa Rub for grilled meats. Dad will love experimenting with this on the grill!

Mindo Cocoa and Espresso Rub
1/2 cup of full bodied coffee, finely ground (espresso grind)
1/4 cup of Mindo 100% Natural Cocoa Powder
1/2 tsp of mustard powder
1 tbsp of ground ginger
1 tbsp of paprika
1 tbsp of ground cloves
1/2 tbsp of brown sugar
1 tbsp of ground cumin
1 tbsp of garlic powder
2 tbsp of Sea salt
1 tbsp of cracked black pepper

Instructions:

Mix all ingredients together well. This can be stored in an airtight container in your refrigerator and keeps for several weeks.

Brush meat with olive oil and dredge the steaks, chops or chicken in the rub and grill to your desired temperature.

Enough rub to cover 4-8oz portions of beef, pork or chicken.

Modified recipe from the Hershey Lodge Culinary team, Hershey Lodge

4. Taza Guajillo Mexicano

These hockey puck-sized chocolate discs feature organic, stone-ground chocolate. Taza’s minimal processing allows the chocolate’s aroma to shine and lends a fun, coarse texture that dances on the tongue. Guajillo chile packs a little heat, which is tempered by the sugar crystals and is great for nibbling or chopping up for chocolatey drinks (hmmm, try an iced cocoa with this one!)
5. Hey Hey Hazelnut!
An amazing dark-chocolate hazelnut spread (aka gianduja) made from scratch by our friends at Askinosie Chocolate. They use hazelnuts (nice and sweet) from a farm in Washington, organic sugar and single-origin Davao cocoa powder and cocoa nibs to make this heavenly stuff. More than half the recipe is hazelnuts, but the nuttiness is still deep, low, subtle and in perfect harmony with the chocolate. Hey Hey can go in Dad’s coffee, on top of his favorite ice cream or on top of his world-famous weekend pancakes! We’re the first store in the country to sell this! Stop by and sample it!
6. Kakawa Cocoa Beans
Have you tried these yet? They are whole roasted cacao beans dipped not once, not twice but THREE times in white, milk and dark chocolate. Then they are dusted with cocoa powder and packed in a bright red bag. If you love the taste of cacao beans/nibs, you will feel right at home biting into these. Full flavor and an addictive crunch make these a perfect mid-afternoon power snack!
7. NEW chocolate bars from Rogue Chocolatier
From the great city of Minneapolis, MN, comes the newest addition to the Deli’s chocolate shelves – Rogue Chocolatier. Colin Gasko is making super small batches of chocolate bean-to-bar using beans from Madagascar, Venezuela and the Dominican Republic. We’ve brought in the Rio Caribe (Venezuela) and Hispaniola (Dominican Republic) to start and we are pretty much in love with them. Here are our tasting notes.

Rio Caribe 70%: A great rainy day chocolate! Nutty/roasty aroma; low and brooding flavor profile that includes espresso, gingerbread, musky melon and dried fruit. A meaty, heavy bar with some tannins to make the flavor linger.

Hispaniola 70%: A lighter, brighter bar that tickles the nose with floral and citrus then moves into higher notes of honey, grapes and tart blackberries. Super clean mouth feel, nice acidity.

8. RJ’s Licorice from New Zealand
This licorice defines the category of “soft eating” licorice for me . . . it is dense and chewy without being sticky and has a great, clean licorice-root flavor that is sure to satisfy any licorice lover! If your dad likes licorice, this stuff will boggle his mind!
9. Corallo Raisin d’Etre Bar
Sadly absent from our shelves for several months, the chocolate bar that inspired a cult following at the Deli is back and better than ever! Corallo starts with a blend of 70% chocolate– a chocolate that is, to my taste, hands-down the most compelling chocolate on the market (imagine notes of cheese, tobacco and single-malt scotch!) Then, Corallo takes raisins and soaks them in a morello cherry liquor until they become a little tipsy! He mixes the raisins into the chocolate, cools it and slices it in a rustic chunk and voila – you have a new reason for being/living.
10. Zzang! Bars

Saving these for last because, well, I just ate one and I really think they are the best confection that we have at the Deli. Whatever dad is eating these days, or whatever he loved in the past (my dad loved Baby Ruth’s) our handmade, old-fashioned American candy bars are sure to knock his socks off. The Zzang Original, Ca$hew Cow, What the Fudge and Wowza! Bars are candy making at its best. Get a bar for dad and one for mom while you are at it. Might as well pick up one for brother, too. And don’t forget yourself!

Mindo Chocolate Makers and Flora Confections

There are some great things afoot this month in the chocolate corner! I’ve been working the past couple of months to bring in outstanding new products from two with two new companies — Flora Confections and Mindo Chocolate Makers. Based in Chicago, Flora Lazar of Flora Confections is an expert in classic, French-style candies like pâte de fruit and honey and nut nougat. And right down the road in Dexter, MI, Barbara Wilson and Joe Meza are trying their hands at making bean-to-bar chocolate! As luck would have it, both company owners will be making appearances at the Deli this month, rolling out the their products, sampling, answering questions and getting to know you. Behind the scenes this month, I’m working to bring in new chocolates from Rogue Chocolatier in Minneapolis, MN as well as an outstanding peanut brittle from Elaine’s Toffee in California — more to come about that in June!

As always, I am only an email duffatzingermansdotcom  (duffatzingermansdotcom)   or a phone call (734-663-5282) away if you have any questions or comments related to the wonderful world of chocolate and candy!

Duff


duffatzingermansdotcom  (duffatzingermansdotcom)  
734-663-5282

Mindo Chocolate Makers

www.elquetzaldemindo.com/chocolate

Joe Meza and Barbara Wilson are two of the most determined people I know. I met them last fall and have been following their progress as they went from talking about starting a chocolate company to having single-origin, bean-to-bar chocolates and cocoa powder on the shelves at several great shops around town. Their story is great, and Zingerman’s is proud to support them.

Joe and Barbara have been married for over 30 years and they live and work in the Dexter/Ann Arbor area. Both had busy careers in other industries and, around 2008, they started talking about retiring and spending the winters in Ecuador (where Joe was born). The couple visited a beautiful town called Mindo (about 1 and 1/2 hours from Quito) and began construction on a little home. But as Joe explains, “I can’t do anything small,” and the winter home quickly evolved into a hostel and restaurant called El Quetzel de Mindo. About that same time, Barbara began experimenting with roasting the local coffee beans. One thing led to another and soon she was roasting the local cacao and playing around with making chocolate. The work was fascinating and the results compelling enough to convince the couple to focus their energies almost entirely on making chocolate. In 2009, they built a facility for drying, fermenting, roasting and winnowing local cacao on their property. In the last year, they’ve taken the last great leap — importing Ecuadorian cacao from Mindo-area farmers and completing the chocolate making process at their factory in Dexter. And that, my friends, is the short story of how of your friendly, local chocolate company — Mindo Chocolate Makers — came to be!

While we’re not currently stocking the chocolate bars at the Deli (although I can see them in our future), I am super-duper excited to be selling Barbara’s unsweetened chocolate disks and all-natural, unsweetened cocoa powder. The unsweetened chocolate is extremely tasty. I keep a 1/2 # of the disks at home and nibble on one after dinner. The chocolate is typically Ecuadorian — it smells and tastes delicately floral, like all the great spring smells we’ve been enjoying around the neighborhood these past couple of weeks. It hops and jumps in your mouth with nice acidity and is very, very mild for 100% cacao. If it is this nice to eat, just imagine how it would play out in your favorite recipe for chocolate brownies, cake, mousse, etc. Yowza! The all-natural (i.e. non-alkalized), un-sweetened cocoa powder from Mindo Chocolate Makers is also great — we sold out of our first case in less than a week! And you know the amazing thing? Barbara is pressing the cocoa powder right at the factory! There aren’t very many companies who can claim to press their own cocoa powder/butter right at the factory (most people out-source that step or skip it all together).

Flora Confections

www.floraconfections.com

I knew 2010 was going to be a good year because one of the first things that happened in January was getting to know Flora Confections. On January 5th, Ari forwarded me an email from Flora, who I didn’t know at the time. As I quickly learned, she is a first-rate chocolatier/confectioner based in Chicago, specializing in French-style nougat, pâte de fruit and bonbon. Anyway, she emailed Ari to ask for pâte de fruit and cheese pairing suggestions for a piece she was writing for the Huffington Post. Of course, he said “Happy to taste!” and before I knew it I was standing in front of the cheese taste with Ari and a plateful of dazzling pâte de fruit, trying different flavors with different cheese. Needless to say, that was a lot of fun.

After that experience, I knew I needed to get my hands on some of that pâte de fruit. It was just perfect — reminding me of the confections I have tasted in France. Loose and juicy, light and sweet, with just enough pectin to hold them together without making them gummy. I like the ingredient list, which lists fruit purée first! I also love the fact that Flora works exclusively with the fruits of the Midwest, specifically those that grow in Illinois and Mighigan. Her springtime flavors (and the flavors you will find at the Deli this month) include Honey Crisp Apple, Apricot, Blueberry and Raspberry. Flora says that pâte de fruit “highlight the best of local fruit,” and when you taste one I think that you will agree. Flora wrote a great piece about her discovery of pâte de fruit and shares a recipe in her Huffington Post article.

In addition to Flora’s pâte de fruit you will find her nougat at the Deli, too. This nougat style is nougat mou, or “soft nougat.” This doesn’t mean that it is fluffy and whipped up, but rather that it has a nice chew to it. It doesn’t crack and crumble — it bends. We currently stock two types, a traditional (with pistachios and almonds) and a locavore (with pecans and dried cherries). The ingredient list for these is outstanding: Free range egg whites from Illinois, honey from Ellis Farms in Benton Harbor, MI, almonds, pistachios, pecans, dried cherries from Seedling in South Haven, MI… you get the idea.

These are not complicated candies — they are classic confections, flawlessly executed. Zingerman’s is the only place you will find Flora Confections outside of Chicago, which is pretty exciting.

Don’t forget to stop by the Deli between 11 and 1 PM on Friday, May 14th (Mindo Chocolate Makers) and Saturday, May 28th (Flora Confections) for FREE demos and a chance to learn more about Flora, Barbara and the important work they are doing to make great chocolates and confections… and to make all our lives a little bit sweeter.

Upcoming Chocolate Events

Call 734-663-3400 to save a seat!

Charlie and the Candy Manufactory
Thursday, May 20th, 7-9 PM
Zingerman’s Next Door, $30 advance/$35 @ the door

Join us for a tasting with a real-life Willy Wonka. . . Charlie Frank of Zingerman’s Candy Manufactory! Charlie’s candy bars are an homage to the American “combination” bars of the 1930′s — super fresh and super simple, with outstanding ingredients like honey nougat, brittle, fudge, peanuts, caramel and chocolate. We will taste the entire line of Zzang! Bars — the Zzang! Original, Ca$hew Cow, What the Fudge and brand new Wowza! Charlie will also lead us in a comparative tasting and walk us through a “day in the life” of a candy maker!

Mindo Chocolate Makers Demo
Friday, May 14th, 11-1 PM
Zingerman’s Next Door, FREE!

Chocolate maker and co-owner of Mindo Chocolate Makers (Dexter, MI) Barbara Wilson will be spending the lunch-hours with us at the Deli sampling baked goods made using the company’s excellent unsweetened Ecuadorian chocolate and natural single-origin cocoa powder. Stop by to share some recipes and learn about baking with great chocolate from the chocolate maker herself!

Flora Confections Demo
Sat, May 29th, 11-1 PM
Zingerman’s Next Door, FREE!

Flora Lazar is coming from Chicago to visit the Deli and share her great confections with you! She will be sampling a variety of pâte de fruit as well as her Traditional nougat (pistachios and almonds) and Locavore nougat (pecans and dried cherries). This is a great opportunity to meet and master confectioner and sample a classic French-style candies at their absolute best. Ever wondered how to pair pâte de fruit with cheese? Curious about the origins of nougat? Heard rumors about the movie Kings of Pastry (showing nationally in theaters in the fall) — which Flora co-produced? Stop by and meet her!